My 6 Year Old Is Starting To Wet The Bed Going to Goa

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Going to Goa

The Indian army marched into Goa in 1961, ending 450 years of Portuguese colonial rule and, in a devastating effect, opening the Mecca of hippie tourism. As a result of the liberation, as it is officially called, one set of invaders got away but that gave rise to a new one.

The changing face of Goa began with a series of Hindu dynasties, then Muslims from the north and east, and finally the traveling Portuguese. During their four centuries of occupation, the Portuguese demolished temples, built churches and converted people to Christianity.

The hippies of the sixties found no airport and no sign of established tourism. There was almost no accommodation available, so they threw up palm leaf shelters on the beaches or rented rooms in village homes for a while. Up until the mid-seventies, a steady stream of ‘freaks’ turned up and gave Goa a rather undesirable reputation as a den of drugs, all-night partying and nudism that upset some local sensibilities.

They are all almost gone now, but still have some of their character, especially at Anjuna’s Wednesday Flea Market. Covering a wide stretch of beach just off the north end of the province, the earlier travelers found their wallets empty but, wanting to stay longer, they started selling their belongings from guitars to jeans, from flower power shirts to Beatles records.

A lurid bundle of sound, color and ethnic mix, it’s an exciting mix of cultures and products. You can buy spices and shoes, jewelry and clothes, fish stew and dahl. The colors, the smells, the young girls in their colorful saris that grab you and pull you in. “Come to my stable!” and you will not let go until you have given a few Rupees for something. They are nothing if not durable. They fight among themselves if they think that one of their group has stolen a sales opportunity, and they are hot and fiery, but just as quick to forgive them.

Rajesh is from Rajahsthan. He pays a similarly high rent for his parking lot, so he works long hours to generate income during the peak season when the Monsoons come. “My family, my brothers and sisters, we do these things during the rain when it’s too wet to work outside. “

The instinct to trade is strong. Rajesh and others ask me if I have anything to sell. It’s great for a small disc player but Indian government taxes put a regular Sony completely out of reach. He would like me to buy him one in the UK that I could send to him and he would pay me in the quilts and throw that line on his stall.

Like many others, Rajesh sells rich decorative, beaded and bejewelled covers, with abstract patterns in color themes. Shells and off-cuts of satins, jewels, silks and deeper dead cottons are combined to create pieces that range from cushion covers to the size of a single bed. Hanging in a separate gallery in Edinburgh, they cost at least £150 each. Here they cost about £15.

Rajesh introduces me to someone who makes leather goods, a popular Kashmiri trade. I want a leather jacket for my 19 year old son. The fact that today is the end of Ramadan means there are fewer Muslim traders than usual in Anjuna, but we did find one. “What kind of leather do you like, what style, what size?” asked Rouf. “Yak is the best thing,” he tells me, “see, you can scratch it in your hands, twist it, and still it comes back perfectly.”

I risk Nicky’s size, I chose a Hugo Boss model style from the catalog of some major exporters, and a Yak jacket is delivered to my hotel the next day, ordered, for £45 .A cashmere suit with silk lining for men and women; bags, belts, brochures are all custom made within days in towns and villages across Goa.

Although very few of the sellers are westerners now, the sellers who came from Gujarat, Rajasthan and the semi-religious Lamani tribe in Karnataka, still, like their predecessors, on the fringes of Goan society. They all have a distinct style of dress and culture, selling everything from ear-picking services to motorbikes.

There are plenty of beach walks around Anjuna. One famous host is ‘Goa Gill.’ He tells how it all started when he first became an Aussie backpacker in 1969. “I remember it so vividly today. We were sitting by the fire. ​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​

“We developed the concept of reinterpreting ancient tribal rituals for the 21st century and tried to use the party setting to raise awareness through the trance-dance experience.

“You know, use music and dance to awaken the cosmic spirit and everyone would be renewed and healed by that, and so would the earth. We’re just moving that forward to work for young people now.”

There is a real fear that too much of this kind of thing could be the way to Goa’s downfall as a popular tourist destination, but that seems very unlikely to me. Goa encourages its visitors to enjoy what they want. You can be oblivious to raves and noisy nightlife if you choose to be. You can go on your own little crusade around all the important churches like St Francis Xavier or you can spend all your money on bargain designer goods in the capital, Panaji.

You can treat it like you treat a Majorcan resort, or you can go native and explore the untouched countryside with its rich environment of animals, birds and animals. You can stick to organized tour coaches or risk the sardine buses for a penny or two. You eat in restaurants that represent every ethnic group imaginable and you will find that, like most places, the quality varies. When it’s good, it’s great and a whole lobster will set you back maybe £2.

Goa, with its strange mix of modern tack and medieval morality, is a small area of ​​just 65 km wide and 105 km long (3701 sq km). Somehow he manages to generate something that is still unique, and for a much lower price than a week in Cornwall.

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