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Depression Refractory Mix For The Backyard Foundry.

This old-time furnace rescue combination for a crucifix or cupola

foundries were taken over by cash-strapped foundry owners during the great depression, everyone suffered financial hardship in those days, so there was a lot of embezzlement going on , now the backyard brewer can save money home brewing just like the old timers did.

First, you need to make up a mixture of grog, ie broken firebricks without slag, break them up to 50% – pea size & 50% Walnut size. Place the grog mixture in a large bucket or drum, and fill the drum with water until the grog is well covered; leave to soften until there are no signs of air bubbles.

Follow the next steps carefully, as the amounts are made up by volume and not weight.

Take “three volumes” of the now very wet 50/50-grog mixture and add “two volumes” of good fire clay. (Measuring measures can be anything from a small tin to a large bucket, depending on what you need) Mix thoroughly and compact it like sand with a water glass mixture of 50% water glass & 50% water Water glass is the old name given to sodium silicate.

The final grog and fireclay mixture should be about 6% moisture, it should ball up easily in your hands, if it’s crumbly, it’s too dry, and you may need more add water. But watch carefully because you don’t want to let it become like mud. Finally put your mixture under plastic, and let it sweat & age for about 72 hours, or about three days. Now comes the part where you can start pouring the mixture into your cupola or gas furnace.

With the metal or wooden inner wall in place, the mixture can now be placed around the furnace wall and gently pushed into place until the lining is complete. Smooth it on top and then leave to dry for a day or two.

Before you start tearing the mixture, to help with drainage and ventilation later when curing the heat sink, drill a series of 1/4″ holes through the shell. outside to help provide moisture as the mixture dries. , you can light a small fire in the furnace and begin to slowly dry & cure the refractory lining.

The drying stage is about the most important part of the whole process, and it needs to be printed in bold. If you dry out the fuser too quickly, it will crack and crack, and ruin all your good work.

When the steam stops from the vent holes, build a bigger fire up to where the bed or melting zone is. (10″ to 14″ from the bottom of the furnace cupola) Turn on the blower, this will increase the heat and glue or glue the rammed mixture to a hard lining.

It is advisable not to use Borax while glazing the liner, borax is a flux and will cause the liner to dissolve, and you don’t want that to happen. This homebrew rescue liner you made and installed in your furnace should not be needed, except for the area around where the melting zone occurs. In which you have to replace it with a small ring after every melting session is finished.

In a gas furnace it will last for several years.

Good luck.

Col. Croucher.

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