Dress Up Costumes For 4 To 5 Year Old Girls Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Two – Renaissance Europe Through 1799

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Some Fun with Antiquated Hat Terms – Part Two – Renaissance Europe Through 1799

Some obscure and unusual words come to light when looking back at the history of hats and headgear. Having recently finished reading THE PROFESSOR AND OUT (Simon Winchester, HarperCollins, 1998) about the creation of the Oxford English Dictionary, I thought it might be fun to explore the definitions and etymologies of some of these ancient terms, most of which have all but disappeared from modern usage. [I’ll breakup this project into three or four parts, so stay tuned.]

To qualify for inclusion below, a word must appear with a red line in Microsoft Word’s “spell checker” tool. So here goes:

Ferroniere

[Fr. ferronnière, a frontlet; a coronet worn on the forehead: after Leonardo da Vinci’s portrait La Belle Ferronnière.]

(See quote 1960.)

1840 THACKERAY in Fraser’s Mag. 681./2. June Sisters..with pink scarves..and brass feroniers..voted very charming. 1908 HC SMITH Jewelery xx. 172 This head ornament is known as a ferroniere. 1960 H. HAYWARD Antique Coll. 117/1 Ferronière, a chain worn as an ornament encircling the head with a jewel in the centre.

Bongrace

Obs.

[a. F. bonne-grace ‘th’ vppermost flap of the down-hanging taile of a French-hood (whence belike our Boon-grace)’ Cotgr.; f. bonne good, grace grace.]

1. A shade or curtain formerly worn over the front of women’s bonnets or caps to protect the complexion from the sun; a parasol. (See 1617. others; the later may belong to 2.)

1530 PALSGR. 907 Bone grace, le moufflet. 1533 Pardoner & Fr. in Hazl. Dodsl. I. 203 Her goodness she keeps, with her French hood, When she ever went out in the sun. 1595 R. WILSON Pedlar’s Prophecy. Bij, Fillets and bunraces. 1604 DEKKER King’s Entert. 311. This auspicious heel is made to protect his face from the heat. 1617 MORRISON Itin. III. IV. i. 170 The shade of the French veluet to protect them from the Sunne, which our ancient women borrowed from the French, and called Bonegraces, now altogether out of ours. 1636 DAVENANT Plato. Lovers Wks. (1673) 411 If she had been old enough to wear Bongrace.

fig. 1609 HEYWOOD Brit. Troy VI. civil 137 grove, through which the lake flows, making his bowers the mercy of the Sun.

2. Wide-brimmed hat suitable for shading the face. arch. or Obs.

1606 HOLLAND Sueton. 75 Wide-brimmed hat [marg. or Bond-grace = petasatus] on his head. 1638 Costume of Songs (1849) 140 Straw hats will be no more for charity, To hide their faces from the bright sun. 1719 D’URFEY Pills (1872) IV. 107 Her Bongrace of wended Straw. 1815 SCOTT Guy M. iii, an old fashioned bonnet called bon-grace.

3. “Junk-wings; for lowering obstacles from the ship’s sides or bows’. The name of Smith the Sailor-bk.

Hook

Obs. except Veest.

[a. OF. huque, heuque a kind of cape with a hood; in med.L. huca (13th c. in Du Cange), MDu. hûke, hôike, heuke, Du. huik, MLG. hoike, LG. hoike, heuke, heike, hokke, hök, E.Fris. heike, heik’, haike, hoike. Ulterior origin obscure. See also HAIK1.]

A kind of cape or cloak with a hood; “the outer garment or mantle worn by women and then by men; afterwards also applied to a tight-fitting dress worn by both sexes” (Fairholt Costume).

1415 in Nicholas Testa. Vetust. I. 187, I will that all my tottandes [and] Huykes have no fur, divide among the servants. 1418 EE Wills (1882) 37 The husband of Grene and other melly also divorced. 1423 JAS. I Kingis Q. xlix, An huke sche had vpon hir tissew quhite. c1440 [see HAIK n.1]. a1529 SKELTON E. Rummyng 56 Her hue Lyncole Grene. 1530 PALSGR. 231/1 Hewke clothe for a woman, surquayne, Froc. Ibid 233/1 Hooke. 1616 BULLOKAR, Huke, a Dutch garment covering the head, face, and whole body. a1626 BACON New Atl. (1627) 24 Messenger in rich Hook. a1657 LOVELACE Poems (1864) 210 Like the ladies in Luic’s land, He wears his everlasting back. 1694 Dictation of the Danton Ladies. (N.), German maidens..put on a straight or plain garment, such as they call a huck in some places. 1834 JR PLANCHÉ Brit. Costume 181. 1852 CM YONGE Cameos (1877) II. xxxvi. 370 When she was not wearing armor, she wore a huque, or tight-fitting garment.

b. Refers to Arabic. haïk: See HAIK2.

1630 J. TAYLOR (Water P.) Wks. (N.), A richer variety [of women] the doe wears a huicke, which is a cloth or stuffed placket, the top of which is gathered and sown together in the shape of an English pot with a tassel at the top. 1660 F. BROOKE tr. Le Blanc’s Trav. 269 ​​​​(Cairo) They [ladies] all are masked and covered with a Huke that hides their face.

Thus, huke v. trans., to cover with or as with a hook; a veil, a cloak.

1613 H. KING Halfpenny. Wit (3rd ed.) Ded. (N.), I will throw over it a light, well-meaning, perfect veil, to soothe and disguise it from public shame.

Lovelock

[f. LOVE n.1 + LOCK n.1]

Peculiar curls worn by courtiers under Elizabeth and James I; later curls or curls of hair of any peculiar or conspicuous nature.

1592 LYLY Midas III. ii. 43 Will you have..your lue-lock crowned with a silky twist, or shaggy fall on your shoulders? 1628 PRYNNE (title) Love’s love locks. 1840 MARRYAT Poor Jack i, Lovelocks, as sailors call the curls they wear on their temples. 1894 A. GRIFFITHS Secrets Prison Ho. II. IV. ii. 63 Bandoline, which she used in making love-locks to adorn her forehead and temples.

transfer 1886 MAXWELL GRAY Silence Dean Maitland I. i. 12 each [cart-] the horse wore his mane in love locks.

Fontange

[Fr. fontange, f. Fontanges the territorial title of a mistress of Louis XIV.]

A tall headdress worn in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

1689 SHADWELL Bury F. 11, What do you lack, ladies? finely mazarin Kapuces, Fontanges, Belts. 1711 ADDISON Spect. No. 98 1 These old-fashioned fountains rose Ell overhead. 1883 FG STEPHENS Catal. Prints Brit. Us. IV. 282 An ugly old one-eyed woman in a fountain.

Begin

[a. F. béguin child’s cap. See BEGUINE, note.]

1. Child’s hat.

1530 PALSGR. 198/1 Byggen for chyldes heed, beguyne. 1532 MORE Confut. Tindale Wks. 577/2. 1639 MASSINGER Unnat. Battle IV. ii would you like me to convert my hat to double impact? 1755 Connoisseur No. 80 (1774) III. 71 Such warehouses, caps..biggens..as if setting up a Sleeping Hospital. 1819 SCOTT Ivanhoe xxviii My brain has been racked… since my head was first bound.

Cadogan

[Said to be from the name of the 1st Earl Cadogan (died 1726). See Littré, and N. & Q. 7th Ser. IV. 467, 492.]

Mode for tying the hair behind the head.

c1780 B’NESS D’OBERKIRCH Mem. (1852) II. ix, had been introduced by the duchess of Bourbon at the court of Montbéliard.[the fashion] from cadogans, which until now were worn only by gentlemen.

Toupee

[a. F. toupet (tup ) tuft of hair, esp. over the forehead, deriv. (in form dim.) of OF. toup, top, tup, tuft of hair, foliage, etc.; ad. *LG. topp- = OHG. zopf top, tuft, summit; cf. OFris. top tuft, top, ONorse toppr top, tuft, lock of hair: see TOP n.1]

1. = TOUPEE.

1729 The Art of Politics 10 Do we think that modern words are eternal? Toupet and Tompion, Cosin and Colmar, henceforth some simple man will be called Wig, Clock, Pair of Stays, Fan. 1818 SCOTT Rob Roy vi, These fadeurs, which every gentleman with a comb deems it his duty to recite to an unfortunate damsel. 1863 Cornh. Mag. VII. 395 Wigs are dangerous unless openly acknowledged. Paper can easily avoid detection.

b. transfer = TOUPEE b. Obs.

1728 FIELDING Love in Self. Masques Epil., From you then you toupets he hopes for protection. 1748 RICHARDSON Clarissa Wks. 1883 VII. 495 A pair of brocade or lace waist skirts..with acid screwed half-shoveled faces.

2. The front of a horse or other animal (nov.); a thick head of hair (otherwise negro).

1797 Sporting Mag. X. 295 Tuft, or Tufte — That part of the mane which lies between the two ears. 1834 SOUTHEY Doctor iii. (1862) 5 Some Congolese make a secret cube in their wool closet.

3. attrib., as toupet-coxcomb, -man, -wig; pupil, crested pupil.

1731 FIELDING Mod. Husb. I. ix, I meet only with a shipment of winged combs, which cast their brains upon their perivities. 1748 RICHARDSON Clarissa (1811) VII. i. 35 No man; but all masculine. a1784. pennant Arct. Zoo. (1785) II. 423 Tit. The feathers on the head are long, which it occasionally raises into a pointed crest, like a peak. 1884 E. YATES Rec. & Exper. II. 238 A neatly arranged wig.

Thus toupeted nonce-wd. ( tu ptd, tu pe d) a., wears a comb.

1903 Smart Set IX. 53/2 We go to dinner with the combed colonels.

Kevenhuller

Obs.

[f. the name of the Austrian general, Andr. von Khevenhüller (1683-1744).]

a. attrib. Applied to a tall cock, given in the 18th century. for a wide-brimmed hat worn in the middle. (see Fairholt Costume in Eng. (1860) 299); so also with a hat. b. absolute A rooster of this form; a hat put on in this way.

1746 Brit. Mag. 309 A lace cap stamped in what our Beaux have learned to call a Kevenhuller’s cock. 1750. G. COVENTRY Pompey Litt. II. iv. (1785) 58/1 Jockey Boots, Khevenhullar Hats and Coach Whips. 1753 Proc. Common Sense Commission (Fairholt I. 377) Is the Dettingen Rooster not forgotten? the noble Kevenhuller withheld courage? 1762 London. Chron. XI. Hat (Planchè) Division: Hats are now worn averaging six inches and three-fifths wide at the brim, and bent between the Quaker and the Kevenhuller.

Nivernois

Now hist.

[Dormeuse

[Fr.; fem. of dormeur sleeper, applied to articles convenient for sleeping, f. dormir to sleep.]

1. Hood or nightcap. Obs.

1734 MRS. DELANY Life & Corr. (1861) I. 479, I have sent you..dormeuse patrons. 1753 Lieut. Mrs. Deuce in Life & Corr. 260 She had not yet managed to get her dormouse.

2. A traveling carriage adapted for sleeping.

1808 M. Wilmot Jrnl. August 16 (1934) III. 363 We set out at Dormeuse with four horses and two before. 1825 TOTAL. S. DE REDCLIFFE SL Poole Life (1888) I. 357 The two dark green carriages Dormeuse and Britchka you saw.. At Windsor. 1841 LYTTON Nt. & Morning. (1851) 216 Dormitory and four drove up to the door of the inn to change horses.

3. A kind of couch or couch.

1865 OUIDA Strathmore I. vi. 94 (Stanf.) He slept in the bedroom before the fire.

Fred Belinsky

http://www.VillageHatShop.com

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